When this cover is removed, the elevator pushrods can be disconnected and the stabilizer halves
removed for easier transporting or storage.
Searching the Internet, I happened
upon Dimension Engineering’s
EasyLight kit. For less than $20 I
purchased a tiny circuit board with
one JR-compatible servo connector.
I plugged it into a spare channel and
can quickly control the light via a two-position switch on the transmitter. It is
powered by the onboard receiver battery
and doesn’t require separate power.
The only modification I made was
to unsolder the LEDs from the board.
By soldering long leads to the LEDs
and a couple of connectors for quick
hookup, I could mount these LEDs in
place on each wing. I drilled a hole in
the “reflector” large enough to pass the
wire through, and ran the wire lead out
of the end of the wing. It was a simple
The fuselage construction begins
by installing the main gear (assuming
you’re not using the optional float kit).
Each half of the main gear is covered
by a two-piece fiberglass fairing. These
fairings are held in place by a liberal
amount of clear silicone. I found that
the fit wasn’t the best and it took some
work to align it. I used masking tape to
hold things in position while it dried
Installing the tail wheel was next. This
is a beefed-up design that mimics the
system used on the full-scale Beaver.
Four screws hold it in place, but I had
to trim a significant portion off of the
plastic rear mounting bracket so it would
seat properly. Once in place, separate
pull-pull systems for the tail wheel and
rudder were installed.
Before covering it up, I installed the
stabilizer halves. They are removable and
are supported by a tube, but you have to
locate, drill, and tap the holes necessary
for the stabilizer mounting screws. After
the rudder and elevator were in place
using the CA-type hinges, the elevators
were attached to the pushrods and the
two covers screwed into place.
Shifting work to the front, the
engine mounting box is installed next.
Two templates are included to aid in
drilling the firewall for either electric
or gas power. Because the electric
power system was included with the
review model, it was a simple matter of
mounting the motor, then sliding the
box into the fuselage, and adjusting it
to the correct position so it could be
epoxied into place.
A Castle Creations Phoenix Edge
120HV ESC was included with the
review Beaver. According to the
manual, a multitude of settings can
be tinkered with, but I found that the
Edge 120HV was set up for airplane
operation right out of the box. After
plugging in the bullet connectors
and plugging it into the receiver, the
Phoenix Edge was held into place via
a strip of hook-and-loop tape on the
underside of the motor box.
I glued the dummy motor into
the cowl and attached the cowl to
the fuselage with four hidden bolts.
I trimmed away a significant portion
of the dummy motor to allow it to
clear the Power 160.
Work moved to inside the cabin. After
the radio gear was in place, the front and
rear seats were added. The seats cover
most of the radio, giving a nice scalelike
look to the cabin. Both seats are held
in by magnets so they can be quickly
Because I used electric power in
the Beaver, the batteries needed to be
positioned for balance. I put them far
forward into the battery box and the
Beaver was perfectly balanced. The only
catch with the electric power is that
you cannot use the premade instrument
panel and control yoke because the
batteries are in the way.
The completed Beaver weighed
15. 75 pounds. The batteries add
another 3. 5 pounds for an all-up weight
73 Model Aviation DECEMBER 2014